The problems of getting around the city of Dar es Salaam

Dar es Salaam in Tanzania is one of the fastest growing cities in Africa. Its population has increased eightfold since 1980 and swells by half a million people every year. United Nations projections anticipate it will become a megacity within seven years as its population passes 10 million, reaching 13.4 million by 2035. Daniel Hoornweg for the Global Cities Institute forecasts the city could be home to an incredible 73.7 million people by 2100.

Today, four out of five of its people live in single-storey informal settlements on the spreading edges of the city, where the journey to and from the centre regularly takes over two hours. It can be longer if rain turns the dirt roads to mud.

Even in the middle of the day, traffic frequently slows to a stop without warning. It is not unusual for cars and minibuses to queue for 20 minutes at a key intersection. A single suburban rail line serves residents in a few areas to the south but is tiny in the context of the wider city. Outside the centre many rely on boda boda (motorbike taxis) to navigate the narrow side streets and potholed mud roads that make up much of the metropolis. Their safety record is scandalous.

Dar es Salaam's reliance on four arterial roads into the city is a legacy of the colonial government that planned the city at the start of the 20th century to cater for a population of 35,000. Most of the current growth is made up of young people arriving from the countryside to find work, and as the population has exploded, Dar es Salaam has grown around those four highways. Nearly all the expansion is happening on the periphery, and nearly all takes place informally without any agreed strategy.

But Dar es Salaam is pinning its hopes on a solution that could offer a different model for Africa's megacities, giving them an alternative to a future controlled by the private car. Unlike many cities on the continent, Dar es Salaam isn't trying to build a metro. It has chosen a less exciting but cheaper and more achievable method: the bus.

The DART bus rapid transit (BRT) system runs on bus lanes separated from other traffic, mostly in the middle of the road to reduce stoppages. Ticket purchase and control takes place at stations prior to boarding and the buses are step-free, which means the entire route is accessible to people using wheelchairs or who are travelling with baby buggies.

'The new buses are much, much better,' says Paulas George, a young IT worker. He takes the bus every day and it has cut his journey time by two-thirds. He says it is not perfect, though, complaining that drivers often refuse to turn on the air conditioning to save fuel.

That is not the only problem. A shortage of buses after a serious flood at the main depot during the rainy season means the system is carrying 200,000 people a day - half the expected capacity. Smartcards can't be used as the mechanical readers aren't working either, forcing passengers to buy individual paper tickets for every journey. Each is printed with a scannable QR code, but there are no scanners. Staff stand by the gates and tear tickets as people enter. As a result, queues are considerable at peak times.

Morogoro Road to the north-west of the city was phase I of the BRT project. Phases II and III will install bus lanes along Nyerere Road to the south-west and Kilwa Road to the south. Construction on both routes is due to start imminently. Phase IV, towards Bagamoyo in the north, is in the preliminary design stage. 'Much of the city will have access to a world-class transport system within the space of a few years,' says Chris Kost, the Africa director of ITDP (the Institute for Transportation and Development Policy). All phases are being planned to high standards and, once complete, a third of city residents will be within a short walk of the BRT network.

The ITDP regrets Africa's obsession with metros. 'With a metro, an international firm will often just parachute in its own system,' says Kost. 'Bus rapid transit allows existing stakeholders to get involved. That's what we did in Dar es Salaam and what we're planning in Nairobi, where the bus bodies will be built in the city and local operators will look after tickets, fare collection and IT ... Bus rapid transit has been transformational for Dar es Salaam. For millions of people in African cities, this is their best hope of ever being connected.'